Ninh Binh

Our journey to Ninh Binh on a sleeper bus turned out to be another authentic travel experience. Waiting for the delayed bus at a gas station, with two by locals blasting Vietnamese music videos from YouTube, was unexpectedly entertaining.

Long story short – the sleeper bus was comfortable but arrived in Ninh Binh a full seven hours later than scheduled. Thankfully, the stunning region of Ninh Binh more than made up for the hassle. The charming village of Tam Cốc, where we stayed, and the surrounding landscapes were absolutely breathtaking, quickly making us forget about the journey.

Tam Cốc

Tam Cốc, meaning “three caves,” derives its name from the trio of caves along the Ngo Dong River. It is part of the larger Trang An Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its breathtaking limestone karsts, ancient temples, and serene pagodas.

While the lush green or blooming rice fields are one of the main attractions, we visited during a time when the fields are water-flooded. This gave us a different, yet equally captivating perspective – the chance to admire the hardworking rice farmers tending to their fields, a scene that added a unique cultural dimension to the stunning landscape.

A sight we were able to witness while cycling towards the buffalo cave.

Buffalo Cave

The Buffalo Cave, owned by four local families, includes the cave itself, part of the river, and surrounding rice fields. It offers a wide range of authentic experiences, including buffalo riding, rice planting, fishing with a “nom” or fish tackle, and cooking classes. Needless to say, I quickly became a fan of the Buffalo Cave.

During our visit, Huyen, one of the workers, persuaded us to volunteer for an English class. The lesson ended with a heartfelt dinner shared with her family, one of the cave’s owners, and a rice farmer – the very person we had taught English to earlier.
This unexpected turn of events became one of the most immersive and rewarding experiences I’ve had in a long time, offering a deep connection to local life and culture.

A few things we have learned:

• The average salary per month in rural regions is around 6 million VND and 10 million in cities – roughly 230 or 400 CHF.
• Children visit the school, that parents pay for, from 8:00 to 16:00 and learn English from elementary school on.
• To mourn for a dead friend or relative they burn fake money.
• The dish on the picture is raw pork, that was wrapped with a banana leaf and left to ferment for tree days.

Mua Cave – Hang Múa

Mua Cave, which translates to “Dancing Cave,” is believed to have earned its name during the period when Ninh Binh served as the capital of Vietnam. Legend has it that the king used the cave as a place for entertainment, where he ordered graceful dancers to perform for him atop the site.

After just three hours of sleep, we hit the road at 5:30 to enjoy a quieter, less touristy experience at the top of Mua Cave, home to the iconic Lying Dragon statue. Surprisingly – or perhaps not – we met another Swiss traveler with the same idea. Even so, we were lucky to have about an hour of solitude, allowing us to breathe in the fresh air and forget any lingering stress while taking in the beauty of this well-preserved area.

The climb to the viewpoint, with its 500 steps, felt surprisingly easy compared to the incredible reward of the breathtaking panoramic views.

The white steps leading to the top resemble China’s Great Wall unsurprisingly, as they are believed to have been carved during the Tran Dynasty.

Some more pictures from our Mua Cave experience.

Tràng An

Tràng An, located further north of Tam Cốc, is renowned for its marvelous natural and cultural sites. It features 48 grottoes and caves, majestic limestone mountains, and several temples and pagodas, including Vietnam’s largest, the Bai Dinh Pagoda. This area offers a unique blend of historical relics, breathtaking landscapes, and a thriving ecosystem that supports over 600 plant species and 200 animal species, many of which are endangered.

While exploring this incredible ecosystem and its rich historical heritage, we also had the pleasure of making a new friend – Eva – along the way.

Ninh Binh – Old Town

We spent our last evening exploring the Old Town of Ninh Binh before heading back to Tam Cốc to enjoy some drinks and local food. Along the way, we passed by a pagoda—its name escapes me, but it definitely caught our attention and made our stroll to the Old Town all the more exciting.

Random Photo Dump